Palampore, the Tree-of-Life

In the eighteenth century and very early nineteenth century, when most Europeans were using linen and wool dyed in earthy tones, vibrant fabric panels from India—palampores—emerged on the scene. In this pre-industrial era, Indian dyeing technology was unsurpassed, and the Coromandel Coast was renowned for hand-painting and indigo dyeing on fine cotton cloths.

A palampore is a type of hand-painted bed cover that was originally made in India. The word palampore is derived from an ancient Hindi word meaning bed hanging. These patterns were usually very complex and elaborate, depicting a wide variety of plants, flowers, and animals.

The intricate cloth was created using the kalamkari technique, in which an artist drew designs on cotton or linen fabric with a kalam pen containing mordant paint and then dipped the textile into dye. The dye adhered to the cloth only where the mordant had been applied. This lengthy process had to be repeated for each color in the design. Then, small details were painted by hand.

Palampores became very popular in Europe, where they were often used as bed covers, wall hangings, and draperies. Europeans loved the colorful floral designs and the light, easily washed cotton.

While the tree-of-life motif can be seen as having come from India, it is likely linked to the Dutch and German herbals that first reached India in the sixteenth century. Historians, at one point, proposed that the tree-of-life motif was inspired by a combination of Persian miniatures, English crewel embroideries and European chinoiserie patterns. The huge blossoming flowers that curve around tree limbs on these palampores suggest a European influence. Ultimately, the palampore has become an exquisite amalgamation between east and west.

This tradition has stood the test of time and has been an important part of decorative textiles for centuries. We invite you to visit how this tradition continues in the Schumacher Collection.